Larry Jones, my partner and client for this Everest expedition, has decided to go home. We had some success on this past three day rotation, sleeping two nights at Camp One and traveling to Camp Two at 21,300 ft. But ultimately, Larry decided that climbing to the summit of Mount Everest did not fit well with his priorities in life at this time.
The two of us started down from Camp One through the Khumbu Icefall at around 8:15 this morning with Larry having already made his decision. We made good time and I was pleased at the skill and strength Larry displayed in crossing ladders and dropping down steep ice faces on the way to Basecamp. Once down safely, he packed up and began his exit to Lobuche and ultimately Lukla, with Passang, who had led our trek in.
Larry didn't want me to have to come out with him if it had a negative effect on my own attempt to climb the mountain this season. This was generous on his behalf, since of course, my reason for being on Everest this year was to guide and climb with Larry. While many might assume that I'd be quite happy to be left on my own to climb the mountain, that is not neccessarily the case. Without question, climbing to the summit without guiding responsibilities is safer. And of course, my trip has been paid for, which is not insignificant. But my goal had been to guide the mountain. In the odd specialty that I've carved out as my career, guiding Everest's summit is one of the things I strive to be the very best at. I will try to switch gears now and set my personal goal at ringing the summit bell one more time, but to be honest, I will need to think hard for a day or two. There is plenty of risk involved, which I do not take for granted. There is also ample beauty, as I was reminded in these last few days in the Western Cwm, and friendship which I found in the handshakes and greetings of about a hundred Sherpas on the trail yesterday and today. I'll think fast and hard... and perhaps I'll wash my socks.
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