This is Dave. I’m calling from Everest Base Camp. So we got up early this morning, at about 5:00, to check in, by radio, with our team up at Camp III. And I was a little worried for them because you could hear the wind blowing hard during the night up high on the peaks but Casey Grom said they didn’t get hit with too bad winds. They got some gusts in the night but not too bad. So they did OK on their night. They descended to ABC and we descended to Base Camp, myself and Leif Whittaker and Michael Brown.
It’s kind of nice. We had the whole Western Cwm to ourselves, we had the Icefall to ourselves. Pretty much the climbers, all the western climbers and all the Sherpa teams have pulled off the mountain now to wait for summit bids. So some have been waiting for a week already or are resting for a week or are down in Katmandu by the sounds of it.
But we’re pretty happy to be here at Everest Base Camp. We’ll rest up and wash up for a couple days and then we’ll start looking at forecasts. But the jet stream is over the mountain now and it’s expected to be here at least for the next week or so my guess is things won’t be happening really quickly right now. It’s a nice feeling for our team. Our Sherpa’s put in the last carry to the Col today, the South Col. And the members are all acclimatized and ready. We’re set for the summit now. Bye.
This is Dave Hahn calling from Mt. Everest. We’re at Advanced Base Camp. And last night just went perfectly, a really calm night for myself and Michael and Leif up at Camp III, near 24,000 feet.
This morning we went just a little bit higher then that, then came back and secured Camp III, came on down here. We passed our other team of Chad Peele and Casey Grom, along with Scott and Rob. They were making their way up to III, so that was a new one for them. They’re spending the night up there now.
Our Sherpa team, at least four of our Sherpa’s went to the South Col today. That was pretty good and all back down safe. So we’re about the only ones up here right now.
Most people are either in Base Camp or down valley. They were spooked by the forecast or they’re getting ready for the summit. We’re so far getting away with it. It’s a little windier up high tonight. But it really turned out to be a great day and it’s actually pretty pleasant to be up here without a bunch of other teams. I really feel fortunate that we’ve got it to ourselves. But, hoping to go down to Base Camp tomorrow. And hoping our team up at Camp III tonight has a great night. All for now.
This is Dave, calling down. Calling down from Camp III on the Lhotse face. We measured it at about 23,850 - something like that. Oh, what a day, a great day for climbing. Actually myself, and Michael, and Leif woke up feeling kinda ragged at Camp II. And kinda tired and not sure if it was worth it to go up, but the weather looked really nice so we did go. And we ended up, all of us, feeling really strong and God, just had a beautiful day out on the Lhotse face and rested away the afternoon.
It’s really calm up here. And then we’re treated to an amazing sunset. We just stood out there until we were all freezing. It was kinda fun, we saw Chad Kellogg coming down. He’s gearing up for a speed climb on the mountain. Today he carried a load up to the South Col. We’ve been kinda keeping tabs on him. It seems like he’s doing really well. But it was kinda nice to share the sunset with him. And then we retired to the tents. It’s pretty cold now, still no wind. We've just eaten a nice dinner, maybe a hot drink or too. And we’re going to hope for a not too rough a night way up here on the Lhotse face.
We’re as high as anybody on this side of Mt. Everest right now. There is nobody above us. We did hear that a few more people summited today but they’re well below us by now. That’s it from Camp III.
This is Dave. I’m up at Advanced Base Camp. 21,300 feet, standing out in a mild snow storm in the dark. We went directly from Base Camp to ABC today, about 6 hours hard climbing to get up here. It’s been a calm day but we have been flirting with snow storms all day.
One of the fun things this morning coming up through the Icefall was we met the Sherpa team’s that put in the route to the summit yesterday, and nice to see those guys coming down. It was actually nine Sherpa’s and one western guide from Russell Brice’s team, as I understand it. And so they did a great job.
But we’re up here now at ABC and we’re hoping to get enough of a break in the weather to get up to Camp III. We want to sleep at Camp III at 24,000 feet as our final acclimatization round before our summit bid. So that’s what we’re doing up here. We’ll see what the weather does, see what it allows us. But our Sherpa team is up here as well and they’re going to try to get in, in the next couple days, our last carries up to the South Col. All of us getting pretty close to being prepared for the summit. Bye now.
This is Dave Hahn calling from Mt. Everest. And kind of a murky day at Base Camp; in and out of snow showers but not really adding up to anything. In fact the snow that was here is kinda melting.
Big news today, the big news of the season so far, is a number of climbers made it to the top today. It was a rope fixing team built of Sherpa’s from AAI, IMG, and Himex teams and so this has been talked over for like the last three, four weeks getting this composite team up there to fix the rope early and they did it spectacularly today. It was either nine of ten climbers, not sure just how many. But they were on the summit at 11:25 this morning and conditions apparently not all that bad.
We are dealing with a forecast for a little bit of snow possible the next day or so and then winds coming in, so it sounds like they did just right by getting the route nailed in right now. And we’re hoping folks can take advantage of it in the next couple of weeks. And I’d sure like that. Make it a little bit less crowded when we go for the summit, which will still be several weeks off from now.
We are going to get up early tomorrow morning and get up through the Khumbu Icefall and up through the Western Cwm to Camp II and begin our last acclimatization round, hoping to sleep at Camp III in the next few days. We’ll see how it goes. Bye now.
This is Dave at Mt. Everest. And things are going pretty well. I see Kaji Sherpa over there, just walking into our kitchen tent here at Base Camp and he was up on the South Col earlier today. Pretty amazing. So he was at 8,000 meters this morning and now he’s all the way back down here to Base Camp. It was interesting talking to him up there. It looked like kind of a stormy day but it was calm up there when he was on the Col. And then we had the usual afternoon snow storm and right now I’m looking at Lhotse just blanketed with new snow. Pretty amazing.Down here it just amounted to another ½ an inch or an inch. Not really a problem.
But I’m looking out on Leif Whittaker and Mark Tucker, Seth Waterfall, playing a game of horseshoes. We’re killing time before dinner. The light is nice, the clouds are all around. You can still see the mountains. It’s been a good rest day. We did a little organizing of food for going up on this rotation where we’re going to be trying and sleep up at Camp III on the Lhotse face. Lots of anticipation for that and lots interest in the weather now and what the patterns are doing. But everything is going pretty well. Everybody’s healthy and we hope to keep that going. Bye for now.
This is Dave Hahn calling from Mt. Everest. We finished our first full rest day. Everybody’s got nice, fluffy, clean hair again and clean clothes. It’s really nice and comfortable being down in Base Camp. We’ve still got new snow on the ground. It hasn’t melted. And in fact it snowed a little bit more today but it seems like a pretty much a normal pattern. Everybody’s getting a lot more interested in the weather now and the weather forecast. Folks are coming around always asking for info, or trading info and as I say it’s getting a little interesting.
The word is that there are Sherpa teams up on the South Col tonight with the hope of fixing up to the Balcony tomorrow and perhaps to the summit the day after that, which would be nice.
We are happily resting right now. Everybody’s healthy and we’re thinking about going to pull the trigger on this next rotation where we’ll try to sleep at Camp III in preparation for our summit bid. Still coming back down to Base Camp before that. All for now. I’ll let you know what goes on.
This is Dave Hahn calling from Everest Base Camp. Last night up at ABC we had a little surprise storm roll in. It didn’t seem to be on too many of the predictions. But a little wind in the night and about five or six inches of snow. It was still cloudy when we got up. Still snowing a little bit. So we put the breaks on things. We wanted to make sure everything wasn’t going to avalanche if we started walking. Waited a little bit. The weather seemed fairly stable. Although not great. We gathered up our whole team. All our climbing Sherpa’s and all our members and we came down the hill together. Walking down through the clouds, through the light snow, through the Icefall which is a surprise to see the Icefall after we’d been up there for six days to see how it had deteriorated but we made it down through.
And then even though it was kind of a cloudy, snowy day, it was an afternoon of games in Base Camp; oh so comfortable in Base Camp. People were playing cards, horseshoes, chess. A good afternoon.
Interesting being down here. I Iooked around and I could see a bunch of Sherpa’s all around camp and different camps, on their cell phones. Today was the day that cell service came to Everest Base Camp on the south side but of course only if you’ve got the proper Nepal sim card, which none us do have. Modernity comes to the Kumbu, all the way. All for now. Talk to you tomorrow.
Dave Hahn calling from Advance Base Camp on Everest. Sherpa team: Seven of our climbing Sherpas made it all the way to the South Col today, 8000 meters, carrying 140 bottles of oxygen, definitely opening the door to the upper mountain for us. Things seem to be happening a lot quicker right now.
We rested after our big climb yesterday, we rested here at ABC, plan to go down again to Base Camp in the morning. Chad and Casey and Rob and Scott walked up to the base of the face to get their acclimatization in. Boy, there were a lot of teams sending their Sherpas to the South Col today. Exciting to see big long snake of climber s going up through the Yellow Band and up over the Geneva spur.
Right now is like nine in the evening and I’m listening to the winds smashing up against the Southwest Face of Everest, does sound like the winds have picked up up there, it was pretty calm here today but it sounds like it’s really roaring up there now. All for now
This is Dave up in the Western Cwm on Mt. Everest at Advanced Base Camp. Today was a big day for us. Myself and Seth Waterfall, Leif Whittaker, Michael Brown, we got out early today in hopes of going up and tagging Camp III, 24,000 feet on the Lhotse face. It didn’t really seem like we were going to be able to do it this morning. It was cloudy. It was snowing a little bit. None of the Sherpa teams were going for it. We walked toward the face, just for exercise anyway and then we got closer to the face the weather improved so we went on up the fixed lines. Pretty sporty route this year. Getting across the big crevasse at the bottom of the face, the bergschrund, is pretty involved, interesting carry. And than … a couple inches of new snow covering any tracks that were getting chipped into the blue ice so we were finding it pretty difficult going but the weather stayed great and so we kept pushing on.
We shattered Leif’s altitude record. He’d been to about 22,800 before and I’m happy to report that we made it up to 24,000 feet and sat at the site for our Camp III on the Lhotse face in perfect conditions. Sat there for 20 minutes relaxing in the sunshine before we dived down. By the time we were coming down it was cloudy and snowy again but that was OK.
We’re back to Advanced Base Camp now and the rest of our team: Chad and Casey and Rob and Scott had come up so now we’re all at Advanced Base Camp for the night. All for now. Talk to you tomorrow.